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Sepeda Gunung yang pasti sangat identik dengan kegiatan menanjak dan menuruni pebukitan. Berikut adalah tips aman untuk melakukan kedua hal tersebut.

Tips untuk menaklukan tanjakan. sebenarnya problem ini agak rumit namun gampang. Syarat utamanya adalah harus memiliki keseimbangan, kayuhan sepeda yang sempurna, kaki yang kuat dan gir sepeda dipasang pada posisi rendah.

Seni dan cara melewati tanjakan curam dapat digambarkan pada tiga ketrampilan teknik dasar:
(1) Posisi tubuh yang benar.
(2) Menjaga kayuhan.
(3) Mengetahui apa yang sebaiknya tidak boleh dilakukan.
Sekali kita menguasai dasarnya, tanjakan yang tidak mungkin bisa dilewati akan berubah menjadi mungkin.

Cara terbaik untuk dapat melewati tanjakan yang sangat curam adalah kita harus menguasai cara nanjak secara bungkuk. Berikut adalah aturan cara nanjak yang benar. Penting untuk kita menghemat tenaga jadi sebaiknya jangan sprint di bagian awal tanjakan. Gunakan gir yang sedang, tetap jaga kecepatan kita sepanjang bagian bawah dan di bagian mudah dari tanjakan itu. Ketika tanjakannya jadi semakin curam, ganti ke gir yang semakin rendah (enteng) dan gerakan tubuh kita, ke ujung depan saddle, tapi jangan terlalu jauh, jangan sampai ban belakang kita slip pada tiap kayuhan sepeda.

Pindahkan beban tubuh kita ke pinggang untuk menjaga sebanyak mungkin berat pada roda belakang, tanpa membuat roda depan kita terangkat. Pandanglah bagian atas tanjakan dan pilihlah jalur lintasan terbaik yang akan kita lewati. Hindarilah sebisa mungkin pada bagian yang berbatu dan terlalu becek. Dalam situasi traksi minimal, mengangkat tubuh kita dari saddle, biasanya jadi pertanda dari akhir genjotan dan dimulainya kayuhan pada tanjakan. Tetaplah dalam posisi bungkuk sampai kita sudah bisa melewati bagian yang paling curam dari tanjakan itu. Kesalahan kita sewaktu menanjak yang paling umum terjadi adalah memindahkan posisi tubuh ke depan waktu ban depan sudah melewati ujung tanjakan, padahal ban belakang masih dalam kondisi menanjak. Hal ini akan mengambil beban dari ban belakang ( yang masih di tanjakan) dan menghapus semua aktivitas tanjakan kita. Terpenting adalah untuk tidak menyerah! Kalau kebetulan kita keluar dari jalur yang seharusnya, usahakanlah bertahan dan cari jalan alternatif ke atas.

Ingat, kita tidak akan mempunyai tenaga yang sama banyaknya kalau kita sampai gagal menanjak dan harus mencoba untuk nanjak lagi.
Keluarkanlah semua tenaga kita untuk melewati tanjakan itu dengan cara yang nalar dan ilmiah.

Cara Menaklukan Turunan

Berikut adalah tips untuk menaklukan turunan. Yang pasti dalam melakukan turunan ini, sangat diperlukan sikap tanpa takut dan tanpa gugup. Karena sekali kita 'goyah' sudah dapat dipastikan akan terjatuh. Setiap orang memiliki ketakutannya sendiri, namun jika orang lain bisa melakukannya.. mengapa kita tidak?

1. Ambil Posisi untuk Turunan

Langkah terpenting untuk selamat dari turunan curam, adalah dengan memindahkan berat badan ke arah ban belakang. Gerakan ini untuk memindahkan pusat berat badan kita ke ban belakang, sehingga jika kita menggunakan rem depan, sepeda yang kita kendarai tidak akan jumpalitan. Jangan ragu untuk berdiri diatas saddle sepeda. Lutut ditekuk, dan badan kita harus bungkuk di atas sepeda. Ini lah posisi turun yang benar. Membungkukkan badan di atas sepeda, agar supaya menjaga pusat berat kita di dalam batas aman, yang cukup buat roda depan supaya bisa stabil. Sekarang kita bisa bermanuver dan mengerem dengan tenang dan aman.

2. Coba Mengerem dengan Rem Depan

Memang agak repot untuk para pemula, karena mengerem dengan rem depan akan membuat para pemula goyah dan jatuh. Cuma mengandalkan rem belakang saja bisa merusak lintasan dan merusak turunan yang tadinya mudah untuk dituruni menjadi susah karena jadi ada jalur bekas rem. Coba latihan di turunan curam dengan posisi ini, dan setiap kali, gunakanlah lebih banyak rem depan, sampai benar-benar bisa mengerem dengan baik.

3. Mengendalikan Sepeda dengan Benar

Semua turunan yang curam pasti lurus, dan di bagian bawahnya akan ada jalan yang bisa dilewatin sehabis dari turunan. Tapi pada kenyataannya, semakin curam suatu turunan, maka semakin labil pula permukaannya. Jadi belajar untuk bermanuver dalam posisi tadi, adalah kunci keselamatan diri kita. Untuk melewati celah di turunan, pilih dimana jalur kita paling diagonal dari celah itu. 2 meter sebelum celah itu, lepas kedua rem. Nanti sepeda kita bakal terbang melewati celah itu. Segera! Tekan lagi rem depan, terus rem belakangnya, kalo yakin, kita sudah melewati celah itu.
Cara yang sama berlaku juga buat turunan model apa saja. Sepelan mungkin di turunan, lalu pas mau belok langsung lepas rem, dan tekan lagi remnya begitu sudah lewat belokannya. Selalu melatih kedua kegiatan ini bersama-sama untuk mendapatkan hasil yang optimal.

Keberanian dan modal yang cukup akan membuat Anda merasa nyaman dengan hobi ini.
Kepenatan Anda terhadap rutinitas pun akan cepat hilang jika sering melakukan hobi ekstrim seperti ini
. (sumber : Majalan Manly)



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Just too cool to ride

The latest, the Strida 5.0, is now available in the US bringing with it a new hybrid commute sensibility that is rolling in praise. More than just a utilitarian part of greener transport, this bike is an exercise in cool.









Mau..mau,..mau...??
http://comogy.com/art-and-design/366-futuristic-wine-cell-cooling-system.html_




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PBC (Pindo Bike Community)
Para Penggowes sepeda yang terbiasa melewati medan offroad dengan berbagai kondisi trek seperti aspal pecah, jalan setapak, jalan berlumpur, jalan kebun, turunan curam berbatu, tanjakan, kerikil dan lain sebagainya tentu mempunyai pandangan lain. Tidak jarang pula mereka harus merem mendadak setelah melaju kencang begitu melihat rintangan yang sulit dilewati. Mereka tentu menyadari beban kerja yang dialami oleh sepeda yang mereka gunakan.

Bagaimana pengaruh medan yang dilintasi terhadap kalibrasi handle bar, kondisi velg, jari-jari, rantai dan RD yang dipaksa bekerja keras, belum lagi bearing atau peluru yang bisa jadi pecah setelah melahap drop off atau menghajar batu.

Karenanya adalah sangat wajar bila sang Penggowes terlihat begitu asyik berjam-jam mengutak-atik, membersihkan, memberi pelumas, menyetel sparepart atau bahkan bolak-balik ke bengkel sepeda untuk memastikan sepeda yang biasa menemaninya selalu dalam keadaan tokcer.

Merawat sepeda gunung sebenarnya gampang dan murah, asal dilakukan secara rutin. Ibarat sepeda motor yang tidak dirawat secara rutin berkala, sepeda pun apabila tidak dirawat dengan baik maka apabila kerusakan terjadi sudah demikian parah tentu akan mengakibatkan

pengeluaran biaya yang tidak sedikit. Tetapi terus terang, rangkaian kegiatan sejak memilih, membeli/merakit, memakai, merawat serta memperbaiki sepeda adalah merupakan realitas mengasyikkan yang hanya bisa dirasakan oleh si empunya sepeda.

Tips merawat sepeda :
1. Bersihkan

Cuci sepeda Anda dengan air dan sabun agar bagian-bagian yang berpelumas bersih. Bersihkan bagian sprocket, chain ring pada crank, kabel, kanvas rem serta rotornya dan pulley RD dengan sikat gigi, kain kanebo

2. Keringkan
Keringkan dengan kain lap yang halus (kanebo) kemudian jemur sebentar agar sepeda benar-benar kering.

3. Lumasi
Lumasi bagian-bagian yang perlu pelumas dengan pelumas sepeda.
Bagian yang perlu pelumas : rantai, baut-baut shifter (tuas pemindah gigi), tuas rem, pemindah gigi ban depan dan ban belakang), cleatless pedal, serta kabel rem dan gigi.

4. Periksa
Periksa kembali baut-baut yang kendor, brake, bearing, kencangkan baut-baut agar aman saat digenjot.

5. Simpan
Simpan sepeda Anda, usahakan jangan diparkir lantai untuk jangka waktu yang lama, karena ban sepeda akan mengeras dan menyebabkan korosi pada velk alloy Anda. Menggantung sepeda akan lebih aman jika disimpan dalam jangka waktu yang lama. (Dari berbagai sumber)




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Safe Cycling in the Road

It is important to learn how to bike safely on the road. Try to stay in the left lane. But not to edge too, because usually shatter glass / glass and sharp objects cause leaking tire, it is there. You have the same vehicle with other users. Bersepedalah with a 2-3 foot distance from the mouth asphalt. Give space to others on the vehicle through without disrupting the current path you use. Use the hint-hand turn and make sure before installing a number of reflector when cycling
in the dark.


Wearing helmet

If you want more secure cycling, always use a bicycle helmet. Injuries in other body parts can still be treated and recover, while the brain cell injury is very difficult to detect and difficult to be cured. Head visit bike shops and select the one that has a helmet safety standard corresponding your cycling skills. Choose which really feels fit with the size of your head and adjust the strap so that the helmet pengikatnya not easily be separated. Do not slack to tension or vice versa.


Use shifter

Many people who love cycling using the highest gear all the time.
Purpose heart want to get the speed as closely as possible. As a
result, they paddle with a hard and fast lethargy. Way so not only
cause the weary foot-weary, but also can damage the muscles and joint. But how efficient is that cyclists take the stroke (cadence) is in the range of 80-100 rounds permenit (RPM). Use shifter in order to maintain the cadence depending on the conditions that faced the road. Lower gear when the road uphill. Do not feel reluctant to take shifter as often as possible, for the comfort of your foot pedal when the pedal. Better cycling with safe and comfortable, rather than solely pursue speed.


Handlebar control in the curve

This is due to appear only need to rotate the handlebar, the direction and veer right handlebar is quite a while want to add a stroke more quickly. Reasonable if the first time you feel afraid to bend when passing a bicycle appears italics. But the expert rider can even tilt up to a bicycle near 45 degrees with no drop.Practice early in the curve with speed without being rigid. The more you practice, feelings of fear will be lost through a twist in itself.


Braking

There are myths that the braking on the front wheel can cause a cyclist can terjungkal. This myth is not entirely correct, front brake
is more work than the rear brake. Front brake capable of stopping a
bicycle more efficient rate.


Cycling in line Off-Road

Many unique challenges that lie in the path off-road. Cycling will
feel more comfortable because of past land, grass, trees, and other
natural scenery. However, never try to put off non-bike on the road
this path. In addition also contains many dangerous risks, such as a
flat tire. Use a bicycle that is designed for off-road if you want to
ride a bicycle across mereguk enjoyment of nature. Mountain bike
(mountain bike) is the best option. Consider the jaur passed fit your
cycling ability. Do not be ashamed to play the lead or a bicycle, if
the road conditions are too difficult to pass.


Bicycle Fitness

Cycling merupaka the best way to gain health. If you do not
already exercise, start slowly with the body so. with a short distance in the beginning stage (less than hourly) and try to regularly (4-5 times a week). At this time the body will experience adjustment. To avoid injury, do not be too heavy or cycling in the far distance. After a week or two next sunday, you're ready to add the distance and the longer cycle time. Follow to join the local bike club.
(Source http://www.polygoncycle.com/)
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Biar kuat gowes sarapan dulu dong biasa menu ikan belut plus telor bebek jangan lupa teh manis hangat dijamin siap tempur deh mo medan kayak gimana juga..
.
Nah udahh sarapan langsung brangkat gowes..gowes.... meskipun jalurnya kayak gini gowes jalan terussssss....eh nyungsep deh tuh di poon pisang
Kalo ada yang murah meskipun lagi gowes ya di datengin deh, mau pete ke mangga ke jeruk ke apa aja deh yang penting murah meriah jadi buat oleh-oleh biar ngga di marahin sama mamah katanya makanya pada beli dah tuh pete....meskipun bau he,,he,,he,,
Kalo gowes pulangnya bawa duren gimana ya...???



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Jadwal masih seperti biasa hari selasa dan kamis pos pertama di prapatan jembatan gantung jam 6.15am, tunggu teman yang dari klari dan johar, pos kedua di prapatan perumahan peruri dan bintang alam tunggu teman yang dari perumahan bintang alam dan perumahan peruri jam 6.30am, pos ketiga di cidomba jam 07.00am tunggu teman dari perumnas dan karaba. Sampai pabrik jam 07.30am bisa langsung sarapan atau mandi dan siap kerja, ayo kita gowes....gabung yuu...


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Jalur glorindo oceh punya nih mantap kalo di coba, menantang apalagi musim hujan kayak gini asik dan sangat menantang adrenalin dan memang cocok dicoba sebelum ke medan yang berat sekali. Main becek-becekan yuuu...awas ntar mama marah tuh...masih mau coba lagi??



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By BikeRadar

What do you do when your bike breaks down miles from home? You can stick out your thumb, you can call a cab, or with abit of preparation and ingenuity, you can get yourself home. Here's how.

Preperation

is the key. As well as the basics of a pump, multi-tool and a spare inner-tube or two, carry a survival kit of essential spares and materials. Use a small container, such as an old Tip-Top patch kit box or a 35mm film canister, and fill it with the following, packing them in tightly so as not to rattle:
  • Small and medium zip-ties
  • A small piece of cut-down Biro casing wrapped with a length of duct tape
  • One or two SRAM Power Links, 9 and/or 10-speed, depending on your bike and those of people you ride with if you want to be Bicycle Repair Man. These links will work with most chains
  • A small length of malleable wire (copper wire that can be twisted by hand is best)
  • Some 20p or 50p coins
  • A piece of tyre casing or other suitable material cut down to about 5cm square
  • Optionally, a spare 5mm Allen bolt or two, about 2.5cm in length, and 4mm and 6mm Allen bolts if you have enough space to fit them in your container
  • A St Christopher medallion or lucky charm!

Bike prep for panic prevention

  1. Replace a couple of your shorter 5mm bottle-cage bolts with longer ones that are 3-4cm; these can be used on many modern twin bolt seatposts or clamps.
  2. Fill your tubes
    with tyre sealant such as Slime. This can be extremely effective at warding off the debris from recently trimmed hedgerow. You can buy pre-filled tubes or inject sealant into Schrader or two-piece Presta valves. To treat tubes with one-piece Presta valves, you can cut a hole in them (as small a possible!), inject the sealant and fix it afterwards.
  3. Buy a couple of sparenormal spokes of the right length, with nipples, and tape them or zip
    tie them tightly under the left chainstay to keep them out of sight – they are handy to have in reserve.

Now you're all set, here's how to use your emergency kit to deal with common problems

Loose jockey wheels

Jockey wheel emergency repair: jockey wheel emergency repair

Jockey wheels have an annoying habit of coming loose, usually because they
weren't tightened correctly after cleaning. That piece of copper wire
or the 5mm bolt you've got can now do its thing. Just loop the cable
through the centre of the jockey wheel to keep it in place.

Badly slashed tyre

Tyre repair: tyre repair

Use your handy survival kit duct tape and install a slightly larger piece
overlapping the bead of the tyre, thus anchoring it securely when
inflated. You might want to put a second layer, or even use the piece of
cloth or tyre casing, which you also happen to have in your box of
tricks.

Broken seatpost clamp

Seatpost emergency repair: seatpost emergency repair

Re-attach
a saddle to a seatpost when the clamp bolt has broken using zip-ties,
but sit on it gingerly for the ride home. It's not perfect but better
than sitting on a seatpost.

No spare tube

Tube emergency repair: tube emergency repair

Carefully tear the tube apart at the puncture, then tightly knot both ends; or do
the same with your handy zip-ties. The tube will expand back into the
tyre upon infl ation, but go easy on the pressure.

Bent rear mech or gear hanger

Mech straightening: mech straightening

Place the bent rear mech into the smallest cog and big ring, then carefully
and slowly pull the derailleur back into position. The cage of the rear
mech should be in line with the smallest sprocket and check that it's
pointing in a perpendicular direction to the ground.

Be careful when selecting the lowest gear while riding afterwards though, as the
derailleur might no longer be as well adjusted and could get caught in
the spokes.

Broken Rear Mech Or Gear Hanger

Broken rear mech or hanger: broken rear mech or hanger

If your derailleur or hanger is broken beyond repair, you can remove it
entirely and then shorten your chain using the SRAM Power Links in your
survival kit. This repair depends on a bit of luck and preparation –
having a multi-tool that includes a chain breaker will make life a lot
easier, though you might not be able to get ideal chain tension if you
have vertical dropouts. Try to get the chain line as straight as
possible.

Bolt-on repairs

Bolt on repairs: bolt on repairs

You
can pinch a bolt from a place on the bike where it can be spared, and
use it where it's more critical in an emergency. If you lose a stem
bolt, for example, you can borrow one from a rack strut or from a water
bottle cage bolt. But be careful and go easy until a permanent
replacement can be found, especially if you think carbon parts might
be damaged. Run a cloth lightly over suspect areas to check for a
cracked surface – any small cracks will pull the cloth's threads.

Pretzeled wheel

Wheel emergency repair: wheel emergency repair

If replacing a spoke won't do or isn't an option, a pretzeled wheel can be
straightened sufficiently to get you home with a bit of technique and
brute force. Place the wheel with the axle and high point of the buckle
against the ground, then firmly push with substantial weight while
gripping the rim on either side of the bent zone. You can focus and
increase your leverage by using your feet in place of hands and body
weight, along with a stone or raised surface feature such as a kerb.

Having your brake quick release open will reduce the chances of the wheel
rubbing all the way home. Exceptions might be if you have a delicate
carbon frame with tight clearances, where a few miles of tyre rub could
not only result in a blowout, but put a hole in your chainstays,
seatstays, or fork blades. Those spare coins might come in handy now if
you forgot your phone or ran out of battery charge.

Tyre removal

Removing tyre: removing tyre

Auseful trick is knowing how to remove a tyre without the aid of tyre
levers. First, make sure all the air is removed, then lean over the
wheel, holding it vertically against the ground. Starting with both
hands at the top, pinch and manipulate the tyre beads into the centre
of the rim channel simultaneously, with both hands working downwards.

Asyour hands meet towards the bottom you'll find that you've gained a
substantial amount of slack, which should be enough to just pull the
bead over the rim flange. If it's still a little tight, remove your
quick-release skewer and use the lever – it works!

Check thetyre for any debris before fitting the new inner tube. Run your hands
all the way round the inside of the wheel rim to feel for anything that
may have pierced the casing such as a thorn or piece of glass, taking
care not to cut your fingers.

Gear cable repairs

Cable: cable

If you break a gear cable, it's most likely to be the rear one, in the
lever itself or near the head-tube where most friction occurs.

Remove your front derailleur cable and carefully thread it through the right
lever (you'll probably have to twist it in the direction of the winding
to stop the strands from fraying). Tie it using a square knot onto the
cable attached to the rear mech, about halfway along the down-tube.


Before tying the knot, push the mech up onto the big cog. This will
take up any slack when it's released – though with a multi-tool you can
take up the slack in the usual way.

You can also immobilise the
derailleur in a specific gear if all cable options are gone – jam a twig
or piece of debris in the parallelogram, after placing it into the
desired gear.(http://www.bikeradar.com)

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